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淺說壓花皮Embossed Leather

淺說壓花皮Embossed Leather

我們經常看到的皮革,有不同的花紋,比如說鱷魚皮紋crocodile,鴕鳥皮紋ostrich,爬行動物皮reptile ,除了是真的以外,這些花紋是怎麼形成的,我現在給大家一個解答.在一般皮革廠裡,水場複鞣處理已經完成,完成乾燥工序的牛皮皮胚,進入了準備塗飭的階段,由於流行市場有不同的需求,為了満足客戶的要求,皮革廠都有至少一台以上的壓皮機。壓皮機,Embossing Machine, 也有稱Press Machine,因為不是所有的皮都要壓花,而只需壓平或是熨平,壓皮機有平板壓皮方式,也有用滾桶壓皮方式,目前皮革工廠用平板壓皮機器較多,平板有光板,通常是使用最多的板,不僅可以固定表面塗飭,而且可以提高光澤及平滑感,通常使用溫度在攝氏80度到120度,看皮料及化工材料而定,時間由一秒到十秒,甚至更久,壓力大小也視皮料而定,通常壓力大時間長,皮革容易變硬。

壓花皮通常在皮胚階段需要經過樹脂填充及磨皮過程,因為動物皮是天生自然的,不可避免的一定有瑕疵,有些吃草野生放養的,皮上面更是傷痕纍纍,不足為奇。有些皮革還需要用砂紙磨兩次或是多次,才能達到平整要求,尤其是做漆皮鞋或皮包的時候。

在這裡順便一提的,就是俗稱磨砂皮nubuck ,又有人稱牛巴哥或豬巴哥,也有人用正絨革稱呼,這些皮由於以後不會或是很少會做表面處理,沒有用表面塗飭遮傷補殘,所以挑選牛皮的等級必將上升,通常在染色的皮胚或是白色皮胚上,經過磨皮機用細紗紙(400號以上)起絨毛nap,使皮革表面有一種絨的感覺,也可以在上面有書寫效果writing effect, 磨沙皮的價格通常比較貴一些,牛巴哥是做室外鞋,工作鞋的主要皮料,登山鞋及美國陸軍軍鞋,也是主要客戶。假如用二層牛皮或豬皮製成,就叫suede split,牛皮就叫牛二層反絨,也有人把它叫做麂皮,台灣人一般俗稱反毛榔皮,香港人叫猄皮,通常在運動鞋上及室外鞋上,使用較多,做鞋內?也是不少,尤其是豬皮二層。羊皮反絨皮,由於手感好,拿來當成女鞋皮料的也不少。豬皮二層反絨用在服裝上的也不少,但豬二層還是用在鞋內裡多些。

通常皮革廠都會有不同的花板,平板是必備的,其他如砂板,毛細孔紋板、大小荔枝紋板,都很常見。其他如鱷魚紋板,就有很多大小花紋不同的,有些是鱷魚背上的,有些是肚子上的,很多做的維妙維肖,很難分出真假,尤其現在科技發達,雕刻花板技術進步,甚至可以把編織效果都做到近似於真的,還有名牌包包的產品,每年都會推出不同的紋路,某知名品牌的水波紋牛皮,流行很久。壓花皮的産品,可以解決皮革工廠次級皮胚的出路,因為好的牛皮原料價格高,供應量又少,所以市面上壓過花的皮佔了大多數,幾乎大部分的沙發皮都是壓紋皮,有些做的好的皮,還看不出來是壓花過的,有點像全粒面,如果是整張皮或是開邊皮,可以從肚腩部位看出來,壓花皮也可以做到苯染風格的高級皮,很多意大利皮革廠成品,都做的很自然及具有良好的手感,所以價格也是很高,

尤其是鱷魚皮紋,因為真的鱷魚除了價格高以外,供應量也不大。

由於壓皮機有呎吋限制,而且牛皮大小不一,花板壓的時候有接縫處,所以操作人員要把牛皮對板對好,不然在接縫處有些不齊,影響到成品的品質。現在,許多工廠用滾桶式壓皮機Roller Press Machine,好處是花紋一貫的,看不到到接縫處,所以皮革的利用率較大.

壓花皮是皮革製品的主要來源,因為很多稀有動物受保護,市場流行爬蟲動物皮風格,而產生一定程度的需求,所以仿鴕鳥皮,仿蛇皮,鱷魚皮的生產商很多。而包袋用大小不同的茘枝紋皮面,至今還是市場的重要組成部分。

下面這個籃球,花紋就是牛皮壓花皮,給予大家參考!

A Brief Overview of Embossed Leather

What is Embossed Leather?

Embossed leather is leather that has been stamped or pressed to create a pattern or texture. From crocodile and ostrich textures to reptilian designs, embossed leather offers a wide range of options.

How is it Made?

Once the tanning process and drying are complete, the leather, often cowhide, is ready for finishing. To meet various market demands, most leather factories have at least one embossing machine. These machines come in flatbed or roller versions, with flatbeds being more common.

  • Temperature: Usually between 80°C to 120°C
  • Time: Ranges from 1 to 10 seconds or even longer
  • Pressure: Varies depending on the type of leather; higher pressure and longer time usually result in harder leather.

Preparatory Steps for Embossed Leather

  1. Resin Filling: To fill any natural imperfections in the leather.
  2. Buffing: To achieve a smooth surface, especially important for patent leathers or bags.

Types of Embossed Leather

  1. Nubuck: Also known as “buffed leather,” this type is sanded to create a velvety surface. It is usually more expensive and is commonly used for outdoor and work shoes.
  2. Suede Split: Made from the inner layer of cowhide or pigskin; commonly used in sport and outdoor shoes.

Challenges

  • Alignment: The leather has to be aligned properly with the embossing plate to avoid uneven seams.
  • Size Limitations: Traditional embossing machines have size limitations, which is why many factories are now using roller press machines for a seamless look.

Why is Embossed Leather Popular?

  1. Versatility: It can mimic the look of exotic skins, like crocodile or snake, without the ethical and legal issues.
  2. Cost-Effectiveness: It allows for the use of less-than-perfect leather hides, thereby reducing waste.
  3. Fashion Trends: Patterns like reptile skins are trendy, and embossing allows for quick adaptation to market needs.

Quality and Price

Good quality embossed leather can look very similar to full-grain leather, especially those made by Italian manufacturers. However, it’s crucial to align the leather properly to avoid quality issues.

Applications

Embossed leather is widely used in various products, from bags and furniture to even basketballs, as in the example you provided.

Overall, embossed leather offers both aesthetic appeal and practical advantages, making it a prevalent choice in the leather industry.

資料來源:皮革與生活

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