初學者認識皮革表面塗飾的凖備及製作過程

初學者認識皮革表面塗飾的凖備及製作過程

在皮革廠水場複鞣的部分，提䶨降酸，是很重要的過程，水場完成的產品就是皮胚，大部分都會做表面塗飾，而在塗飭方面酸䶨值相對的就沒有那麼重要，但是也要了解化工原料的特色，PH高低，大家知道可口可樂的PH是3嗎？現在，就把皮革表面塗飾的凖備及製作過程，介紹如下，但不是所有皮革都必須照這個過程製作。

◦ 開邊或全幅（side or full hide)，牛皮除了做沙發革外，大部分都會開一半，因為生產設備的成本，而小牛，羊皮，豬皮都不會開邊。

◦ 皮胚 Crust

量呎 measuring

噴水moist

乾伸展 dry toggle

填充 impregnating

乾燥 dry

塗飾機器. Finishing machine

滾塗 Roller coating

噴塗 Spray coating

淋幕 Curtain coating

其他機器的介紹

磨皮機Buffing machine

皮革打軟機 Staking machine

壓皮機 Embossing or Press machine

熨光機 Ironing machine

打光機 Polishing machine

轉鼓 （摔軟）Milling drum

量皮機 Measuring machine

不同皮革的表面處理方式

苯染革， Aninline Leather 通常是以水場鼓染（drum dying）的皮胚為主，表面處理方式以樹脂，油，蠟為主，不用遮蓋性強的塗料。通常以全粒面皮革級數高的，紋路優美，沒有什麼瑕疵的皮革會做成苯染皮革。

塗料革 Pigmented leather，由於沒有很多完美的皮胚，所以大部分的皮都會拿來做塗料皮，基於客戶對於物理性要求不同，可以耐磨耐刮，另外也可以壓出不同的紋路，配合市場的需求，大部分的皮革製品都是以塗料皮革為主力。

半苯染革，Semi-Aniline leather，有些染色的皮胚，由於皮面不是完美，刺刮傷多，所以就軽磨皮面，用有遮蓋性的塗料及樹脂，做出近似苯染效果，提升皮革等級。

皮革製品種類繁多，不同的用途，表面塗飭要求差異很大，比如鞋革，包袋革，沙發革，汽車座墊革，服裝革，在手感以及物理性要求都可能不一樣的。

以上就是簡單的介紹皮革表面塗飾方法，真正要入行的話還必須要學習更多。

這是最簡單的介紹，皮革表面處理是一門很大的學問，對於化工材料的選擇及應用，可以決定皮革成品等級及價格的好壞。

資料來源https://www.facebook.com/leatherandmylife

Introduction to Leather Surface Finishing for Beginners

Understanding the preparation and production process of leather surface finishing can be crucial for those interested in leathercraft or the leather industry. Here’s a basic overview:

Preliminaries

• Side or Full Hide: Most cow hides are split in half, except when used for sofa leather, due to the cost of production equipment. Smaller hides like calf, sheep, and pigskin are generally not split.
• Crust: The semi-finished leather from the tannery.
• Measuring, Moistening, Dry Toggle, Impregnating, Drying: These are initial steps before the actual finishing.

Machines Used for Finishing

• Finishing Machine: General term for machines that apply coatings.
• Roller Coating: Applies the finishing substance via a roller.
• Spray Coating: Uses a spray gun for application.
• Curtain Coating: A curtain of finishing substance is poured onto the leather.

Other Machines

• Buffing Machine: For surface smoothing.
• Staking Machine: To soften the leather.
• Embossing or Press Machine: For adding texture or patterns.
• Ironing Machine: For a polished look.
• Polishing Machine: For an extra shine.
• Milling Drum: To tumble the leather for softening.
• Measuring Machine: To measure the leather’s dimensions.

Types of Leather and Their Surface Treatments

• Aniline Leather: Made from drum-dyed crust and usually treated with resins, oils, and waxes. No pigments with strong hiding power are used. Generally, high-grade, full-grain leather with little to no imperfections is used.
• Pigmented Leather: Most leather is used to make pigmented leather due to the lack of perfect crusts. The treatment can vary based on customer requirements for physical properties like scratch and abrasion resistance. Various textures can also be embossed to meet market needs.
• Semi-Aniline Leather: These are dyed crusts that have some surface imperfections. The surface is lightly sanded and then treated with pigments and resins that have covering power, to produce an effect similar to aniline leather.

Considerations for Different Applications

Different products like shoe leather, bag leather, sofa leather, automotive upholstery, and garment leather may have different requirements for hand feel and physical properties.

This is a very basic introduction. Leather surface finishing is a complex field, and the choice and application of chemical materials can greatly affect the quality and price of the finished leather product. Further education in this area is advised for those seriously considering entering the field.